Want to stop a hallway cold? Build an Art the Clown costume that reads instantly from 20 feet away and still looks brutal up close. Here’s a clean, step-by-step guide to nail the Terrifier 2 costume—fit, fabric, makeup, and props—plus budget tips and screen-accurate tweaks. I’ll keep it practical and to the point.

TLDR: What you need

• White satin or matte jumpsuit with black cuffs and ankle ruffles
  
  

• Black neck ruff (3–4 tiers), black gloves
  
  

• Cone hat with black pom on a headband or clips
  
  

• Bald cap + white base makeup + black details (eyes, lips, smile lines)
  
  

• Creepy dentures or blackout tooth paint (optional)
  
  

• Fake blood and a scuffed trash bag for props
  
  

• Low-profile black work shoes/boots
  
  

• Confidence, stillness, and that dead-eyed stare

Brand note: If you’d rather buy than build, check North American Jackets for ready-made pieces labeled the Terrifier costume or mix-and-match separates to match this checklist.

Part 1: Build the suit (the silhouette sells it)

Fabric
Go with a white poly satin if you want that eerie, stage-lit sheen. Prefer a grimmer vibe? A matte twill or cotton broadcloth photographs more “real.” Either way, avoid see-through blends.

Pattern
A loose, straight-through jumpsuit is right. No superhero tapering. You want volume through the torso and leg so the ruffles and cuffs pop.

Cuffs and ruffles

• Wrists/ankles: 2–3 inch black bands with a single tier of black ruffle.
  
  

• Neck ruff: 3–4 stacked tiers. Cut circles of light tulle, organza, or crisp cotton, gather, and stitch to a collar base. Higher ruff = more unsettling.

Closures
Hidden back zipper or front placket with snaps. Keep hardware invisible.

Fit tip
Size up one. Art looks wrong (in a good way) when the suit hangs slightly oversized.

Part 2: Hat, gloves, and shoes (easy wins)

Hat
Cone hat in white with a black pom. Mount it to a wide headband or two alligator clips so it stays put over a bald cap. A wire core helps the cone stay needle-straight.

Gloves
Plain black cotton or thin nitrile gloves. Matte finish > shiny. Wrist-length is fine; tuck under the ruffled cuffs.

Shoes
Flat, black work shoes or low black boots. Keep the profile simple. Scuff them a bit so they look lived-in.

Part 3: Makeup that carries across the room

You can buy a full Terrifier 2 costume and still miss if the makeup is off. Treat this like the main event.

Base

• Bald cap first. Glue edges around hairline; blend with latex or silicone.
  
  

• White grease paint or alcohol-activated white base. Apply thin, even layers with a damp sponge. Powder between layers so it doesn’t crack under heat.

Eyes

• Black out the eyelids and extend slightly down and out. Think “sunken” more than “cat eye.”
  
  

• Lightly gray the under-eye hollows; it helps the black pop without ballooning the shape.

Brows and lines

• Block or erase brows under the white base.
  
  

• Add thin, sharp smile creases from the corners of the mouth; deepen the nasolabial folds with a gray wash.

Lips/teeth

• Paint lips black, slightly widened at the corners.
  
  

• Optional: blackout tooth enamel or a set of gnarly dentures ups the menace.

Edges

• Set everything with translucent powder.
  
  

• Seal with makeup sealer if you’ll sweat under lights.

Practice run
Do a full face once before the con. Time it. You’ll thank yourself.

Part 4: Blood and weathering (use restraint)

The art the clown costume reads best when the outfit looks clean but not new. Think “stage-ready with a history.”

• Weathering: Dry-brush a mix of gray and brown acrylics along hems, elbows, and seat. Light touch.
  
  

• Blood: Use stage blood sparingly—on gloves, hat edge, or one cuff. Too much reads parody, not menace.
  
  

• Trash bag prop: Crumple and scuff a heavy-duty bag so it isn’t shiny-new. Stuff it lightly so it hangs with shape.

Convention note: If your event has weapon rules, stick to foam or clearly fake tools. You want photos, not a bag check.

Part 5: Pose, movement, and character

Art doesn’t shout. He occupies space.

• Stillness: Freeze first, then a slow head tilt.
  
  

• Angles: Chin slightly down; eyes up. Keep shoulders square.
  
  

• Hands: Let fingers droop, then snap to a rigid “claw” for photos.
  
  

• Walk: Heel-to-toe, soft, like you’re trying not to wake a house.

Do less. It’s creepier.

Part 6: Budget vs. screen-leaning builds

Budget (fast)

• White medical coverall + black bias tape for cuffs
  
  

• Pre-made ruff or layered black tulle
  
  

• Party cone hat modified with fabric cover
  
  

• Basic grease paint kit
  
  

• Total: low cost, 1–2 nights of work

Mid-tier (balanced)

• Ready-made the Terrifier costume base from North American Jackets, swap in a custom ruff, better hat, and pro makeup
  
  

• Add weathering and a fitted bald cap
  
  

• Total: moderate, looks great on camera

Screen-leaning (extra)

• Custom satin jumpsuit with hidden closures
  
  

• Hand-gathered multi-tier ruff, wired cone hat
  
  

• Alcohol-activated paints, dental SFX, lace bald cap
  
  

• Total: higher cost/time, photographs like stills

Part 7: Sizing and comfort

• Sizing: If between sizes, go up. You can always tweak with side seams or an interior drawcord.
  
  

• Ventilation: Line the torso with breathable cotton to keep the white from clinging when you sweat.
  
  

• Emergency kit: Mini powder, small sponge, lip black, and safety pins.
  
  

• Breaks: Grease paint + heat = meltdown. Schedule breathers and re-powder.

Part 8: Care and storage

• After wear: Spot-clean makeup smudges with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab.
  
  

• Wash: Cold, gentle cycle in a garment bag if the fabric allows; otherwise hand-wash.
  
  

• Dry: Air-dry flat. No direct sun—white can yellow.
  
  

• Ruff: Store flat in a pizza box or hang by the collar to keep tiers crisp.
  
  

• Makeup tools: Deep-clean brushes; sanitize dentures and store dry.

Photo checklist (for killer shots)

• Backdrop: Plain wall or industrial corridor.
  
  

• Light: One strong side light for harsh shadows.
  
  

• Pose set: Neutral stare → slow tilt → hand rise → half-smile.
  
  

• Detail frames: Eyes, ruff layers, gloved hands, hat seam.
  
  

• Edit: Desaturate slightly; lift contrast; add a touch of film grain.

Common mistakes (and quick fixes)

• Too fitted suit: Let it hang. Add ease at the side seams.
  
  

• Gloss overload: Knock shine down with a light dusting of translucent powder on satin.
  
  

• Makeup cracking: Thinner layers, powder between, seal at the end.
  
  

• Hat wobble: Add a second anchor clip and a small elastic under the hat to grip the bald cap.
  
  

• Over-blooding: Dab some off with paper towel while wet; mist with water to soften edges.

Quick FAQ

Is this the same as a “Terrifier 2 costume”?
Yes. The look here targets the sequel’s cleaner silhouette and sharper makeup. Listings may say Terrifier 2 costume or the Terrifier costume—both point to Art’s signature look.

Can I buy instead of DIY?
Sure. Check North American Jackets for a base art the clown costume and upgrade the ruff, hat, and makeup for impact.

How long does full makeup take?
First time: 90 minutes. With practice and pre-powdered layers: 45–60 minutes.

Do I need a bald cap?
It sells the character. If you skip it, pull the hat low and black-out your hairline.

Final pass

The difference between “good” and “unsettling” is clean lines and control: a suit that hangs, a ruff that stacks, a hat that doesn’t drift, and makeup that survives heat. Keep the palette strict (white/black + hint of red), keep movement minimal, and let the silence work.

If you want the fast path, start with a labeled Terrifier costume from North American Jackets, then layer the upgrades here. If you want the perfect path, build it—one crisp ruffle at a time. Either way, once the paint dries and the hat locks in, the hallway is yours.